Montefalco is one such place - known as the 'Balcony of Umbria' for its panoramic views, it is approached past endless vineyards along its slopes. I had visited Montefalco before, in August last year, to see the work of Benozzo Gozzoli in the church of San Francesco. Familiar to visitors to the Palazzo Medici in Florence, Benozzo was a favourite collaborator of Fra Angelico (praise from Caesar). His wonderful decoration of the apse of San Francesco bring a heartiness of storytelling to his master's calm, contemplative tradition - joyous details such as a disgruntled bishop shrouding Francis after he cast off his clothes bring a note of levity to some glorious painting. The church is now (rather less edifying) the Museo Civico, but at least its new status means that all the frescoes are in remarkable condition.
This visit was not so artistically driven, but focussed rather on the outskirts, and the vines growing there in particular. Having tried my first Sagrantino di Montefalco at the end of last year I have been waiting for my opportunity to return, so it was with much anticipation that I headed to the headquarters of Arnaldo Caprai, leading producers of Montefalco who have brought international attention to the local Sagrantino grape. Local is certainly the word - only produced around Montefalco, but it competes with the very best Brunellos in terms of quality.
Caprai's state-of-the-art tasting room was a sign that this was no provincial backwater, and the wines followed suit, from the Rosso di Montefalco blend to the '25 Anni' Sagrantino, were astonishing. I will spare you any extensive tasting notes from a novice like myself and merely say that if you see the word Sagrantino on a menu or a shelf anytime soon, buy buy buy.
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